Cast your mind back to July 2018. England was bloody boiling, it was still coming home (just about), and Brexit was a little more comfortably far off and undecided than it is now.
It was also the month where I ticked a biggie off my bucket list: a trip to Santorini. Courtesy of my bloody incredible boyfriend, who gifted me the flights and hotel as a surprise 25th birthday gift.
Santorini has all the good things that every Greek island has: amazing yogurt, blistering heat, incredible sunsets and all the views. But it's just a little more luxurious than any of the others I've seen. It's the kind of place where you can go out for a Michelin-starred meal, but also ride a donkey with heatstroke up a hill if you fancy too.
Given the island's luxury reputation and costly accommodation, my dreams of a trip there were pretty far off. So when the holiday suddenly became a reality, I did a LOT of Googling to find out how to make the most of the island without bankrupting myself too. Here's what I learned.
Where to stay
This really depends on what you want. Flights land just north of a tiny village called Kamari – and incidentally it's one of the weirdest, creakiest airports I've ever experienced. There's usually a queue of people outside being herded through makeshift tape barriers – the airport's so small they can't let too many people in there at once. So forget duty free shopping and a reasonable bite to eat...
My accommodation for this trip was part of the surprise, but after a few days exploring I picked up on the island's best areas.
Fira is the centre of it all really – it's where you'll find most of the night life, restaurants, shops and the old town too. However, if you're looking for peace and quiet and those famous Santorini views, you're not really going to find them here.
Luckily most of the great places to stay are walking distance from Fira – as we discovered when lugging our cases up a hill (another thing to know: taxis are sparse and expensive). Our hotel was in Firostefani, which sits on the cliffside and is utterly beautiful. You can walk down the edge of the island and walk into Fira in about 20 mins, and you get views of the caldera too. It was quiet but not too quiet, and had its own maze of restaurants to try – although thanks to the views, some of them are a bit expensive...
A little further along is Imerovigli, which is another beaut area and worth staying in if you've got the cash to do so. Drawback here is it's a little sleepier and a little harder to reach Fira.
Oia might well be the reason you want to come to Santorini – it's where the iconic blue domed church is you see on postcards. And while it's an undeniably stunning place, I'd say it's a little touristy in places and very pricey in others.
We didn't really explore the southern part of the island, but Perissa and Kamari are other popular spots too that have beaches. These areas don't have caldera views, so you'll get a different sunset there.
What to do
For us, this trip was about walking, exploring and eating. We spent a lot of time lounging by the pool, but just as much time trekking along the paths that take you around the perimeter of the island. There are some absolutely beautiful walks you can do into Fira, that allow you to see the caldera from every angle (and loads of bars and restaurants lining the way).
A trip to Oia is a must. If you're staying around Fira, the most efficient way to head north is by renting a quad bike. These are up for grabs everywhere and they're (for the most part) reasonably priced too. The quad journey into Oia is stunning – think winding cliffside roads and sweeping coastal views.
We stopped off at Katharos Beach on the way there – Santorini isn't known for having amazing beaches, but this was a gem in its own way. Picture lots of rocks, a jaggedy cliff side and a steep walk down. It was pretty shabby chic as far as beaches go, but the water was crystal clear and we were the only people around – so it felt like an undiscovered secret. It gave us a real juxtaposition between the more glamorous, wealthy parts of Santorini on the other side of the island.
Oia itself is a great town to wander – it's a maze of winding narrow walkways and amazing sights at every turn. The blue domed cathedral is a must-see if not just for an Instagram shot, and there are some cute shops selling crafts and creamy ice cream along the way too.
On the way back from Oia, we stopped off at Imerovigli. The views here are really breathtaking, and it's got a sense of quietness that you don't get when you get closer to Fira. We wanted to walk onto Skaros Rock which is accessible by a cliff path from Imerovigli, but made the executive decision not to due to lack of sensible shoes and tired out legs (too many treks into Fira).
One of my favourite days was the boat trip over to the caldera. This might seem like a bit of a touristy activity, but it's so worth doing and gives you a bit of an insight into the island's history. We spent about 30€ each on the ticket, and for that we got a boat trip over, trekked up the caldera with a guide, and then stopped off at the hot springs for a swim. It was blisteringly hot and a real hike up the caldera so I would recommend a large bottle of water, and shoes more sensible than my metallic silver sliders...
And the best thing to do in Santorini? Just watch the sunset. Every night.
It's why people book holidays here, and honestly one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. I'm only slightly embarrassed to admit I was close to tears most nights watching the sun slowly glide behind the north side of the island. It is devastatingly romantic and best taken in with a loved one by your side and a cold glass of local wine in hand.
Where to eat
I'm an avid foodie, but I also appreciate value for money – so food in Santorini was kind of challenging. For the most part it's a bloody expensive place to eat, and the island's culinary offerings seem to exist on a scale between greasy 5€ gyros and chips, and 60€ a head fine dining with pretentious portion sizes and ridiculously expensive wine.
That said, with a little research we did manage to land upon some pretty awesome spots.
In terms of actual cuisine, Greek yogurt is the one to try here. You can find it everywhere and you can expect to pay 9€ for a small bowl – but it's honestly the creamiest, thickest and richest yogurt I've ever tried. Best served with Greek honey and a sprinkle of walnuts.
For cheap lunches, there are plenty of places to pick up gyros (basically a Greek kebab) and other fast food along these lines. Being a bit more of a healthy foodie, I found it hard to find nutritious options without a higher price tag – but most fast food places do little Greek salads for a few euros and they were surprisingly fresh and tasty. It goes without saying that the olives and feta in Santorini are on point too.
We had our most upscale meal at Mezzo in Imerovigli. This place was in NO way cheap, but it was definitely worth the cost. We booked strategically so we'd be there for the sunset, which made the meal special enough – but the food was pretty incredible too. I had yellowfin tuna with cauliflower couscous and a juicy ponzu sauce, and we washed it down with crisp local wine.
As sods law had it, we found the best food for the best price on the last night of our trip – at To Ouzeri in Fira. It's massively secluded but highly rated on Google – the lack of sunset and caldera view is definitely reflected in the cheap prices here. But the food was great quality and the wine was so reasonable too (available in carafes). We both went for the seafood linguine, which had that salty out-of-the-sea freshness you'd usually only get in France. Worth it for the garlic breath the next day...
What to wear
Please excuse me this small chapter of princessy/boujee chat – nailing your attire in Santorini is a surprisingly important part of the experience.
First thing to keep in mind: it's hot. Really hot. The days can be absolutely blistering, but the island's coast can make for some really windy evenings and mornings – so even if you're going in July like we did, take a jacket with you. My denim Levis was an absolute saviour for walks home at night. I also brought some wide-leg palazzo trousers too (see below) which were a useful way to disguise and protect my hideous sunburn.
Heels are basically useless here – I packed two pairs and only wore the flatforms once. It's such a hilly island with loads of steps and cobbly streets that you could easily break a neck if you don't watch ya self (or just get carried away with the local wine #guilty). I basically lived in sliders and some small-heeled mules for the whole trip.
Another thing I lived in? My bikini. Whether it was poolside, hiking, in a café or riding the quad – my bikini top got the most wear ever on this trip. I layered under a sheer white cover-up a lot of the time, but when things got super hot I was not afraid to walk around in bikini plus daisy dukes.
And lastly: an orange-printed playsuit. No explanation needed.
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